What a story: A young, food-obsessed British student at Cambridge University named Fuchsia (God, I love that name) heads to China in the ’90s to study, and manages to become the first Westerner to attend the Sichuan Institute of Higher Cuisine. After that, she zigzags between China and London and, in the process, becomes one of today’s best English-language writers on Chinese cuisine.
That’s Fuchsia Dunlop’s story, as you’ll hear on this extraordinary episode of Special Sauce (part one of a riveting two-parter). Why has she devoted so much of her working life to writing about China and Chinese food, culminating in her latest cookbook, Land of Fish and Rice: Recipes from the Culinary Heart of China? Fuchsia explains: “I really do think that Chinese gastronomy and Chinese cuisine is both an amazing creation as culture and as expression of human creativity and inventiveness and so on. It also has many important lessons for everyone in terms of health. There’s no other cuisine, perhaps, that combines pleasure and notions of health and balance like Chinese…. That’s something that, in the West, in the whole world, we’re struggling with. How do you eat well in a way that’s both pleasurable and also good for health and environmentally sustainable? I think we can find many of the answers and solutions in traditional Chinese cuisine.”
When you listen, you’ll learn, as I did, some Chinese cooking terms that defy easy English translation: zhi jia pian, ma er duo, gu pai pian, niu shi pian. What do they mean? I’m not going to tell you. You’ll have to listen to find out.